



Most educational travel book I've seen to date 
Dark Star Safari is a journey through the REAL Africa. From Cairo to Cape Town Paul travels along the worst roads and through the toughest villages that you won't see on a tourist safari, talking with and learning from everyone he meets along the way. From that perspective this was the most educational travel book to date that I've seen.
One of the consistent observations throughout the book is that wherever Paul traveled the detriment brought to Africa by aid workers is quite clear. Aid is not helping, and it never did. It only contributes to the under-development in Africa and only serves to keep the local despots and corrupt, stagnated governments in power. In Malawi, as in the much of the rest of Africa, the NGOs (Non-governmental Organizations) and virtue activists hire away the local teachers (who only make $27 to $67 dollars a month) offering them better pay and conditions to become food distributors. Few of the villages even have teachers any more.
The author speaks with a knowledge and history of Africa that few others possess since he had lived and worked as a teacher in Africa during the 1960s. As Paul states, foreign aid workers "…didn't realize that for forty years people had been saying the same things, and the result, after four decades, was a lower standard of living, a higher rate of illiteracy, over population, and much more disease. Foreigners working for development agencies didn't stand long. So they never discovered the full extent of their failure. Africans saw them come and go."
Labor-intensive projects are extremely rare in Africa because of self-serving foreign "aid" that require "purchases of machinery have to be made in the donor country, or that bids be restricted to firms in the donor country, or that a time limit be placed on the scheme which encourages the tendency towards large contracts and heavy spending on equipment." Paul also verifies what I had first read about in Jim Roger's Adventure Capitalist. All of the used clothing donated to churches to be distributed to "poor Africa" becomes merchandise the second the cargo ship leaves the port. When it reaches its destination it's purchased in large blocks by merchants who resell them. The author picks up some "new" clothes himself in order to avoid looking like a tourist. His T-shirt read "Top-Notch Plumbing". Of course, all this "good-well aid" does nothing but to hurt Africa's economy. There was a time, not too long ago, when some of the best tailors in the world were in Africa. But how can you be a tailor when the West sends clothes over for practically free? Why be a farmer when the West wants to feed you for free? What's the best industry in Kenya? Coffins. Coffin-making is a booming industry. In one area of Malawi the people are growing their own Maize crops but are using hybrid seeds resulting in big plants but sterile seeds. The farmers can't set aside plants as seed corn because they are all sterile! As Theroux says, "Without free seeds each year these people would starve."
What angers me the most though is what I have seen verified in other reports, namely aid workers "were no more than a maintenance crew on a power trip". Other than a Nun or two who had moved to Africa on their own accord, none of the aid workers, in other words the NGO aid workers, were happy to be there or in the slightest bit helpful to the author. They're all too busy driving around in their air-conditioned Land Rovers to get out and actually help people.
The happiest and most self-sufficient villages that Theroux encountered were, in a very consistent pattern, all out-of-the-way such that the government and aid workers ignored then and didn't mess with them.
There is much more to the book though than state of Africa's corruption. The author's adventures are incredible. It's incredible that he actually lived to tell the tale actually. If you want a romantic story of big-game hunters in Africa, ready Hemingway. If you want reality, read Theroux.
Buy it on Amazon